Pandemic Cruising III: Atlantic Transit

 

We spent 14 days getting to Europe on Regal Princess. It takes seven days to cross the Atlantic, so there was a lot of time for relaxation and hanging out with cousin Gerlyn, who accompanied us for this portion of the trip. 

We had four really nice weather days, two of which were warm enough to swim, so John and I got in the pool a couple of times. 

The ship had a nice adult retreat area (not that there were many kids aboard).

We also enjoyed a lot of time just sitting on the back of deck 16, enjoying the sun and sea. 

Deck 16 Aft: The place to be all day for relaxing and chilling

One day had some rock and roll. The waves were pretty high! In case you're curious:

Being a transatlantic, we had six forward time changes. The time changes were all done at noon, when the Captain and the Watch Commander come on to do their announcements about position, weather, etc. They would ring a bell at noon and say, "It's now 1 p.m." I think I had a bit of classical conditioning going on, because I was starting to dread that bell! As well, the night of arrival in Barcelona brought another time change for daylight savings time 'spring forward,' which is a different weekend in Spain than in the U.S.

Gerlyn has cruised just once before, several years ago, so she tried out lots of different typical sea day activities, including dance lessons, trivia, shows, movies under the stars, and listening to several talented musicians around the ship.

The graphics for Beatles trivia were beautiful! We also played 70s and 80s, as well as country, which we did surprisingly well on (it was all old country music).

Learning Electric Slide and other disco line dances. Gerlyn and I also took Salsa lessons.

I took a class on Italian hand gestures. Fun!

Movies Under the Stars was too cold. We only made it through a little bit of The Princess Bride. Darn! The set-up, at least compared to Carnival, is pretty posh. They put special pads and pillows on the lounge chairs to make them extra comfy. Plus the nice blankets! Since it was a transatlantic, they sometimes also had movies in the main theatre. I don't know who in the world thought this was a good selection for this particular crowd?

I took a peek in the theatre. There was only a handful of people, and they weren't doing the Time Warp!

Members of the house band sometimes played some jazz for us. Nice, especially when accompanied by a magaritini.

This was our first cruise on Princess, so there were new aspects to explore, especially as related to Regal Princess. Those of you who remember the television show The Love Boat may recall that it was filmed on Princess ships. 

Regal Princess is one of the ships that plays a bit of the theme song on the ship's horn when leaving port. I wasn't able to capture that, but here's a 20 second clip on YouTube. Fun!

Regal Princess has a special relationship with The Love Boat show, as it was launched during the year of Princess's 50th anniversary. All six original cast members of The Love Boat were on hand to serve as godparents to the ship.

Another fun feature on Regal Princess is the Seawalk, a cantilevered glass walkway that extends out 28 feet from the ship and is 128 feet above the water, allowing unique views. One evening we were able to watch the pilot boat cozying up to the ship to pick up the pilot. Cool!

Regal is also one of the lucky ships to have Alfredo's Pizzeria. This is a separate pizza restaurant that is included in the cruise cost. The pizzas were delicious, and John was happy to find one with anchovies.

Our cruise package included WiFi, drinks, gratuities, and a voucher for one of the specialty restaurants. It is nice to have the gratuities pre-paid, because they really add up on a 14 day cruise! For the specialty restaurant we chose the Crown Grill steakhouse. Our waiter Francisco was superb, as was the meal!

John chose the porterhouse.

Gerlyn and I selected the rib-eye. I loved how it was served with different salts on the side. We decided to honor beloved central California with our wine choice, Meiomi Pinot Noir, which Francisco emphasized was an excellent selection. And it was! We had it several times with other meals and even one night for sipping. 

Fancy desserts. Variation of key lime pie. Warm chocolate mouse trifle was part of the Chocolate Journeys experience on Princess, with desserts designed in partnership with master chocolatier Chef Norman Love.

Gerlyn also treated us to a dinner at the Italian specialty restaurant, Sabatini's. The appetizers and first plates were particularly delicious. Buonissima!

GG and I had Rossinis (that's a Bellini, but with raspberry puree). My burrata appetizer was fabulous!

John enjoying the Grana Padana Cheese Soup. We all opted for the Chocolate Journeys Rocher. Per usual, it was too much, but we tasted all the different components. And, inside the ball, a candy!

Two days before departure, we learned that there were going to be Internet problems and we were automatically refunded the portion of our package that was the Internet cost (per usual cruise refunds, still waiting on that). Princess has invested a great deal of money in their Internet capabilities, including connection with low-orbit satellites. I had read this past year that their new target market is digital nomads. Together with the wearable medallion (aka tracker) and the app, one is supposed to be able to handle just about everything electronically. This is even to the extent you can order drinks or food and have them delivered to wherever you are on the ship. I liked the idea of this, as it helps cut down crowding and lines. 

However, the system just couldn't handle the middle of the ocean. The app rarely worked, and we could only intermittently use the WiFi for very basic things like a gmail or WhatsApp message (no pictures, emoji, etc.). 

The tracker did work most of the time with the large screens positioned at various places on the ship where you could 'find your shipmates.' This was a useful feature. Also, sometimes when you walked by one, it would have a special message for you.

For the drink package, we have had a lot of specialty coffees - I love having a cappuccino every morning! We've also used our fair share of bottled waters, as well as Pellegrino / Perrier. 

Could there be a more perfect way to start one's day?

We tried several different alcohol drinks. I think I drank more alcohol in those two weeks than in the entire past two years! Yet, we were nowhere near the limit (15 drinks a day), nor the break-even point. I don't know how people do it?! 

Some faves from cocktail hour ...

The Dirty Banana, a Princess must-have drink. Trying their version of Aperol Spritz.

Tropitini for me and Toasted Almond for GG. She thought she didn't like martinis. Ha! John got the mini-leftover of the Toasted Almond. Tiny drink.

Mai Tai and Strawberry Daquiri on a sunny day. Monte Chosco. That one was really more of a dessert, yum!

Mudslides, those were good. Trying out the drink I really liked on my birthday cruise, The Sidecar, to see if it was consistent. Very good, I like it!

GG had the Mint Chocolate Martini, which sounded so promising but was not very good. My Baccarat, on the other hand, was very delicious.

Nutty Irishman for me (it was St. Patrick's Day) and Chocolate Almond for Gerlyn

And, a couple was wed. Cheers!

And, of course, as always, we enjoyed Mother Nature's beautiful shows at sea!

COVID-related stuff

Although COVID numbers were improving, the cruise line still had several protocols in place, including the pre-cruise antigen test and vaccination requirements. Onboard, the mask requirements are no longer in place, but the ship recommended mask usage / distancing, especially indoors. The crew are also still required to wear masks. 

Like MSC, but not Carnival, Princess buffet service is from the staff rather than self-serve. There were crew stationed at the entrances to the buffet to make sure people stopped and washed their hands. Also, hand sanitizing stations were abundant throughout the ship.

The Princess / transatlantic crowd is on the older side, so there was more masking than our most recent cruises, but still the majority were not wearing masks. When we had our masks on, we had several times received eye rolls, death stares, and snide comments. I guess all those whinging about 'freedom of choice,' only mean freedom for their choices?

Santa was on our cruise. I'm certain we've sailed with this man before! There was another Santa, as well, although I never got his picture. He favored Hawaiian shirts, while this one was committed to all red. Which is the real Santa? Probably neither, as they both did not respect others by wearing masks in places logic would dictate. Bad boys!

In Europe, most countries have dropped requirements for masking and testing (if one is vaccinated). Spain had more locals masking than Portugal, more in Cádiz than in Mallorca. Spain was requiring masks in tourist places like cathedrals and museums. As well, masks were required on public transportation, like the train or in taxis. We didn't have to show our vaccination cards anywhere, but the ship encouraged us to carry them with us while in port. 

PORTS

Funchal, Madiera, Portugal

John and I had been to Madeira on a cruise stop in 2007, but it was new territory for Gerlyn. We had mostly sunny and pleasant weather. 

Bridge camera, approaching Madiera at sunrise.

We had hoped to visit the market, but our stop was on Sunday, so it was not open. We still found plenty of fun things to see and do. Madiera was as pretty as I remember, just a bit more built up.

I remember this beautiful tile work that is found throughout the city.

We took the shuttle bus into the town center and began with a stroll around the park. 

Then onward along the waterfront ...

GG and John wanted to take the teleferico up to the top for a view, so they were off ...

Awesome views!

While they were up top, Gerlyn and John stopped to watch the brave (unknowing?) souls taking off on their wicker toboggan rides. John and Emily had done this back in 2007, and it was a memorable adventure, one they did not wish to repeat! 

Current tobogganers and Emily waiting on her ride in 2007

I texted Emily this tile I came across depicting an olden toboggan ride. She texted back, "false advertising!" LOL.

Since the cable car is out of my comfort zone (I don't do too well when heights and movement are combined), I happily stayed by the waterfront and got my Vitamin Sea. I took a long walk out on to the point, then sat on a bench next to a nice woman from Sheffield who was on holiday. We had a lovely chat, and I learned that her daughter is completing the last year of her doctorate in marine biology. She knew a Dean from Durham where Emily will be presenting at conference in the Fall. Small world!

After the cable car, we walked all around the town. First stop was to see the street of painted doors (my bench friend gave me the tip off on this).

After, we meandered along the business and shopping district. We stopped to try the local Madieran bread bolo do caco. Yummy! We noticed that the locals seem to be obsessed with undergarments. There were underwear displays everywhere. 

Throughout our walk, we were impressed with the level of commitment to recycling. In all, Portugal had the best facilities, and this was reflected in their very clean streets. Perfect for admiring the beautiful tiles that are throughout the city.

According to GG's app, we walked  more than 8000 steps! Back on board, Gerlyn was especially enjoying the sail away scenery, so we stayed outside and watched that, then asked for a window seat when we went in for dinner. A very lovely day!

Cádiz

This was our first visit to this ancient port city. Although we didn't have the best weather, we still felt like we were able to enjoy what Cádiz had to offer a one-day visitor. Something that really helps with Cádiz exploration is the four walking tours (map available at the port office), delineated by colored lines on the street. Sometimes the lines disappear, but that's ok, you get right back on track! 

We had decided in advance that we definitely wanted to follow the purple line, but we ended up walking two of the lines and parts of the other two! The port is near a large monument to the 1812 Constitution. The plaza contains memorials.

First up, following the purple line through some streets under construction.  I don't remember the name, even though I remember consulting the map, because we were already off the purple line and onto the blue line! We ended up in this square which had some visual treats.

Uh oh, the line turned blue! Guess we'll go down the alley?

Good choice: The blue merged with the yellow and brought us to the Jardines de Alameda Apodaca, with a view of the waterfront and the fortress Baluarte de la Candelaria in the distance. 

A very typical Spain scene: Walking the dog.

There were some beautiful tiled benches and these pretty green birds hanging out with the pigeons. We saw them in other parts of Spain too. 

I had a dance with poet Carlos Edmundo de Ory, who appears to have danced right off his podium!

Continuing to meander toward the market, we stumbled upon this lovely square and church. It looked open, so we decided to step inside to check it out. Hand sanitizer right at the entrance, near the nook of a Mary chapel, so I took advantage. My hands smelled like incense all day! And, oops!, the church was open because they were having mass. How embarrassing. We skedaddled on out.

We walked some more and came upon the market. These are always fun to just meander through and see the various products. GG and I did this while John sat on the bench with the old men. We bought some fresh bread and tasted samples at the olive stand. Olives with blue cheese (for GG), some other queso, spices, anchovies, pine nuts, and a local type. The olive guy also wanted us to try a piece of cured tuna with a pine nut wrapped inside, a sort of hors d'oeuvre. There was meat from the adult and the baby. The baby meat was way too fishy for me, but the adult was okay.

Next to the market was a modern supermarket, so we popped in to see what it was like. Lots of Jamón!

They are also having supply chain issues.

Onward to the main Plaza del Catedral, where there are two lovely churches and a gate / arch from the 13th century! 

Catedral de Cádiz

Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol

Arco de la Rosa

Lots of walking. Time for tapas! We found a cute little spot on a side street away from the main tourist area. We ordered local white wine, a cheese board, and ham and cheese croquettes. The owner came back to say they only had 2 of that type of croquette, but she could substitute a calamari - with squid ink!

This was a delightful snack and break!

Gerlyn and I wanted to go check out the area around Plaza de San Juan de Dios, so we left John sitting in the park, where he wanted to rest and people watch. The sun was trying to peek out, and we saw some nice sights.

More beautiful buildings. I especially liked the green one. Memorial to La Perla de Cadiz, Antonia Gilabert Vargas, a flamenco singer.

Some sun! Plaza fountain.

We really enjoyed this port. So many time periods and styles are represented. By the time we returned to the ship, we had surpassed 15,000 steps! Time to relax on 16 Aft for the sail-away. 

Look at that yacht in the background; that is one person's boat!

Málaga and Cartegena, Spain

Bad news as we were getting ready to meet our tour to go see the Alhambra: the winds are too high to safely port in Málaga. Wah! That was our big excursion for this trip. So instead, a Day at Sea. The captain also indicated that there may be problems and itinerary changes related to the upcoming Spain ports. Later in the day, he came on to announce that our next day's call, Cartegena, had to be cancelled as well. However, in its place we were headed to Mallorca a day early and would stay there overnight. Not a bad replacement, as these things go.

Re-direct, head to Mallorca

The Sea Day evening we met some nice guys at 80s trivia, Steve and Rob, who are hoping to relocate to Alicante. We had a lot in common and enjoyed chatting with them. Steve had lived in Madrid for a year, so he gave us some good tips of fun places to go there.

Palma, Mallorca, Spain

Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca AKA La Seu, is the prominent structure as you approach Palma. Since its rose window and apse are among the largest in Europe, we felt this cathedral called for a deep explore. 

Front and side views

The beautiful entrances, full of interesting details, could fill a photo essay on their own.

Construction on this cathedral extended from the 1200s to the 1600s! There have been later refurbishments, including designs by Antoni Gaudí, elements that are easy to spot in this beautiful structure.

The cathedral had several lovely side chapels, including Corpus Christi Chapel, depicting the Last Supper.

My favorite chapel by far, though, was the contemporary (2001-2005) Chapel of San Pedro, created by Spanish artist Miquel Barceló. This chapel is an interpretation of the miracle of loaves and fishes. It gives a sense of being underwater, particularly from the unusual stained glass windows. I was so intrigued that I had to spin around and visit it a second time.

Next to La Seu is the historical palace of the Royal Family, so the grounds all around the entire complex are quite extensive and attractive.

These buskers had a good spot for acoustics.

Afterward, we grabbed some crepes and little sandwiches. We ended up unknowingly sitting under a famous landmark tree. Compared to our other stops, Palma seemed more touristy and oriented toward high-end shopping. That's not really something we enjoy, but we did have fun meandering around all the streets, as well as grabbing a tasty treat at a French bakery. Did I mention how much French influence we felt here?

The next day John and I were feeling pretty tired and knew we needed to reserve energy to pack. (It's weird to have a port stop on the last day of a cruise.) So, we stayed on the ship while Gerlyn ventured out to see Bellver Castle, which was built in the 14th century! Gerlyn said that as she was going up the walkway over the moat, she felt like she was truly walking back in time, as the castle appears as it did in the 14th century. She enjoyed learning the story of a man who had been imprisoned there and then wrote a book. 

It was a bit windy up there, but Gerlyn thoroughly enjoyed her castle explore!

Debark in Barcelona: Tour to Girona

Well, all good things must end, so we arrive at debarkation day. Since we were staying in Barcelona an additional three nights and debarkation was so early, we decided that hiring a transfer that would take us on a tour for several hours and then bring us to our hotel would be our best option. 

Our driver Christian promptly picked us up at the cruise port, and we were off to Girona! It was fun seeing the beautiful countryside on the approximate one hour drive.

Upon arrival, we first stopped at a coffee shop for a quick snack while Christian parked the car. He was supposed to just be a driver, but he walked us through part of the city and suggested what to see in the time we had available. That was very kind and thoughtful! 

Yum Snack! Having our piccie made before entering the old city.

Girona's famous Eiffel Bridge. The travel trio ready to tackle medieval Girona.

Girona is a medieval city. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize some of the sites, as the show has filmed there several times. In fact, we encountered  more than one tour group with GoT as its focus. Our first stop was the old Jewish quarter, which was inhabited by the Jewish community of Girona from the 12th - 15th centuries. It being one of the most well-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, there are also Jewish history themed tours available in the city, as well as a museum. Time constraints did not allow us to visit the museum, but some of the exhibits were in the courtyard of the museum, so we had an opportunity to peruse those.

Next stop was the Cathedral of Girona. 

A significant feature of this cathedral is that it has the widest Gothic nave in the world. There is also a significant art work, an 11th century tapestry. The cathedral also affords impressive views of the surrounding area.

  

Tapestry of Creation

Cathedral views. In the last photo, lower right, what appears to be a cloud is snow in the mountains.

Our final stop was a look around the area of the Arab Baths, which date back to at least 1195. We would have liked to have gone inside, but our tour time was running short. 

After our tour, Christian brought us to our hotel, where we began our week-long Spain journey. But, that's for another blog post. In the meantime, if you haven't checked it out yet, take a look at my photo essay on the doors and windows of Spain.