Pandemic Cruising IV: Barcelona to Dover with Emily

 

Emily flew in to Barcelona to join us for a repositioning cruise from Barcelon to Dover on Carnival Pride. This cruise was especially exciting because we had never been to any of these ports before: Gibraltar, Lisbon and Porto, Portugal, Vigo, La Coruña and Bilbao Spain, Zeebrugge Belgium, Le Havre and La Rochelle, France and our debarkation point, Dover, England.

This was also a special milestone cruise - #25 with Carnival - for me and John. That doesn't get you much but a fancy card. However, it does yield a reward to apply: 25% of the amount of a future cruise as onboard credit for the cruise. We used that on our next cruise. Yippee! 

Before getting on to talk about the ports, I'll share my thoughts and observations about the pandemic cruising aspect. I actually don't have a lot to say, because the cruise industry and passengers, like pretty much the entire world, are trying their best to pretend that COVID no longer exists. In terms of protocols, they are still requiring everyone to be vaccinated (or have one of a handful of exemptions), and in the case of Europe, a booster if the vaccination series is more than 6 months old. The other requirement is a pre-cruise COVID test taken within 3 days of sailing. The cruise industry is anxious to eliminate this requirement as well, now that COVID testing for entering the US has been eliminated. In fact, Viking Cruises has already taken this step, and Holland America and P&O have as well for some European itineraries.

COVID-free and ready to embark. Our friend Yuna made us these cute masks.

On our cruise, there were several people in the quarantine cabins and a few who reported having COVID upon return home. Undoubtedly the numbers were higher since only a portion get 'caught.' Fortunately, vaccinations are holding back serious illness. Unfortunately, I didn't see much mask wearing even when the person was hacking and sneezing. As well, I didn't see much hand washing or sanitizing when entering the buffet. 

On the ground, Spain and Portugal were still requiring masks on public transportation, while Gibraltar, France, Belgium and England were not. So, that's where we are, land and sea not much different. 

Onward to share our travels ...

Embarkation and Sea Days

We had a nice embarkation day, on to the ship early and able to swim. The bathing suits went back into the suitcase after that!

By some strange pricing strategy, it was less expensive for Emily to have her own cabin on this trip!

The first trivia of the cruise was Beatles. I know you can guess who won. She got 39 / 40, guessing the song title and year of release.

We had a new towel animal we've never seen before ... in 25 cruises, that's pretty amazing! I told our room steward how much I enjoyed it, but that he didn't need to make towel animals for us. The man looked like he was in a constant state of panic. You wouldn't believe how many rooms they are responsible for now! 

I know you're supposed to be grateful for a gift, but when the gift is chosen with no thought and is the cheapest thing you can think  ... The VIFP club gift was these coozies; it took us a while to figure out their purpose as they were presented flat (maybe a mousepad?). John decided to get creative and turn them into superhero bands. The dining room hostesses liked this. They were still passing these things out at the end of July. *eye roll* Just give us a free drink and save yourselves the trouble, Carnival.

We had a nice sunny day and pretty sunset on our first sea day. The sunrises and sunsets became increasingly harder to capture as we moved farther from the equator. 

First sea day brought Harry Potter trivia. Emily and this woman from LA got all of the answers correct. The entertainment staff guy was floored. He said has never happened. Both of the ladies received a bottle of champagne in addition to their Ship on a Stick.

Sea Day mimosas with Emily's prize.

Gibraltar

We arranged to do a local tour company's dolphin excursion at this port, so we took our time getting off the ship and taking a leisurely walk to the marina area. 

Gibraltar, like Malaga, has pretty decorations in the sidewalks. We all found this sign amusing in its politeness. 

Since we arrived a bit early, we stopped for a coffee and a snack, since we were a bit peckish and our tour fell during lunch time. 

With its Spanish influence, we weren't too surprised to find a breakfast snack with some Spanish flair. Being Jubilee time, there were lots of photos and tributes to the Queen. 

At the cafe in Gibraltar is where I had my first encounter related to my 'funny money.' Turns out I had brought expired pound notes, so my approximate 120 GBP was pretty much worthless. It became a challenge to get rid of it without having to go through the extensive exchange process for non-UK citizens. I currently only have 10 left, so I'm doing pretty good!

The expired pound notes, compared to the new pound notes.

Onward to the excursion. We saw a lot of common and bottlenose dolphins. Being out in the bay also provided a great view of the "Rock," as well as views of Africa in the distance. 

Ready for our excursion! Gibraltar had a pretty marina.

On the way out to the bay, we could see how close the runway is!

Africa. It's amazing how close the two continents are to each other at this point.

Gibraltar

Dolphins

More dolphins

Lisbon, Portugal

It was very pretty coming in to Lisbon as the sun was rising. We got to sail under a bridge, which is one of my favorite cruising activities.

For Lisbon, we had decided to visit the national tile museum, which seemed like an interesting focus for a museum, and then explore the city center a little bit, including tasting a couple of local specialties. The tile museum turned out to be quite extensive and interesting, so we were glad we decided to go there.

The Museu Nacional do Azulejo is housed in a beautiful former convent. The QR code was made of tile!

The special exhibit was works in tile by female artists. 

Our Lady of Light and Our Lady with Jesus by Estrela Faria. 

Purity of the Trace, Cecilia De Sousa and Unknown title, Maria Manuela Madureir

The building itself is a work art, with many original elements from the convent still visible.

The original convent staircase has been beautifully restored and maintained.

Some original building elements.

The church part of the building dates from the 16th-18th centuries and houses an important collection of reliquaries.

Tiles in the collection come from many different time periods and influences. These are some that caught our attention ...

From the early to mid 1600s, with 'moral symbols,' and patterned, c. 1600.

Tile commissioned by the Duke of Braganza, Antwerp, 1558.

Composition with Islamic motives, Seville, c. 1500-1550.

The Dancing Lesson, Willem van der Kloet, 1707.

At the end of the exhibit was a huge panel depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake.

Grande Panorama de Lisboa, Gabriel del Barco 

On our city explore, we visited the Cathedral, stopped at two cafes, and walked through the city gate back to the cruise ship.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, aka Lisbon Cathedral, is the oldest church in the city.

Specialties we tried: Pastéis de nata, Brigadeiros (a Brazilian dessert), vinho verde, pastéis de bacalhau. We liked everything except the codfish cakes.

 

Lisbon City Gate

Leixões (Porto), Portugal

We decided to do the HOHO bus here, as it was the easiest way to see all of the beautiful architecture. On our bucket list was to try port and to visit Livraria Lello, rated among the top bookstores in the world.

The HOHO bus, conveniently, had a stop right near the port. I have to say that Porto has the most beautiful port building I have ever seen!

The architect is Luis Pedro Silva. The building features traditional hexagonal tiles, which were not set flat. This produced a shimmering, undulating effect.

Nearer the port, there are more modern buildings. I liked this colorful construction, as well as the tile work on this building.

This intriguing sculpture She Changes by American artist Janet Echelman is locally known as "the anemone." Echelman has a famous TEDTalk on Taking Imagination Seriously.

Porto is very pretty and is a much older city than I realized, dating back to the 400s!

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso was constructed in 1739. Tiles on the facade were added in 1932.

Visual treats to enjoy everywhere. 

Lunch at a sidewalk cafe next to the cable car track. Don't push your chair back!

Our attempt to visit Livrario Lello was a bust. I'm not sure if it's because the shop is considered one of the top in the world, or because JK Rowling is purported to have written there (although she insists not), or because it was Italian day, but everyone else in the city seemed to have had the same idea! I would have liked to have been able to peek inside.

We did have success with our port tastings. We did some tasting inside of a shop, as well as at a cafe (where we also had more Pastéis de nata, yum!). 

Port and Pastéis de nata

Emily's souvenir collection. The bottle on the left she bought at the port shop. It is a tasty cherry liqueur called ginja.

Vigo, Spain

John and I needed a sea day after lots of hills in Porto, and our big excursion to Santiago de Compostela the next day, so we did not do an excursion. I did walk out into port for some fresh air and easier exercise and saw some cool things.

Vigo Marina

A sculpture by the waterfront. Can you guess what it represents?

It's supposed to be a person diving into the water!

Emily was more energetic than either of us, so I'm turning this portion of the blog over to her to share her adventures in Vigo...

I was excited for our first port in Spain! During the summer of 2014, I lived and studied in northwestern Spain, and though I’d never been to Galicia, I was interested to see if it reminded me of Asturias at all. I went into the city of Vigo as soon as I could get off the ship.

Vigo from the ship

The ship from Vigo

Vigo did NOT disappoint. Many things about the city reminded me of Oviedo, from the steep and hilly streets to the stone churches and signs in both Spanish and gallego. Businesses in Spain don’t tend to open until 10, so I had the plazas and streets to myself for a while. Remembering a trick I used to do in Oviedo, I bought some water and a fruit snack from a little grocery store. I sat on a bench at the edge of the plaza, watching the deliveries being made and the restaurant owners setting up their tables. When three people asked me for directions, I knew I was settling back into the lifestyle almost as if I’d never left.

I spent the morning and early afternoon exploring the city, with no real plan in mind. Starting with the church I was nearby, I poked my head in and admired the architecture. 

Basílica de Santa María de Vigo. I loved the blue tile work in the interior.

I headed down the main shopping street and found myself at Vigo’s modern art museum. I’m delighted to report that many Spanish museums still seem to be free, and I spent a very pleasant 45 minutes with the exhibits by Spanish artists. I climbed hills to another church and let myself get a little turned around in the twisting, medieval-looking streets. One of my favorite activities in Oviedo was to just exist, and I enjoyed that as much in Vigo as I did then.

Vigo is very steep!

Living in Oviedo, I discovered a deep appreciation for Spanish food. (In fact, I wrote a blog about it: https://eatyourtentacles.blogspot.com/2015/04/) When I went into Vigo that day, I intended to sample as much food as my stomach would allow. When lunchtime rolled around, I stopped in a little cafe for two of my old favorites. Ensalada mixta, basically a catch-all term for any type of cold salad, and possibly the best dish known to man, bocadillo de tortilla. It is a slice of tortilla española, sometimes called “Spanish omelet” in English, between two slices of warm, crusty bread. Sitting in the cafe, out of the light drizzle, with one of my favorite meals, I felt almost as if I were a student back in Oviedo again. I also sampled some Galician specialties, white albariño wine and chipirones (lightly fried baby squids). Sadly, I did not care for the squid, but the albariño and crusty bread were absolute winners.

¡Almuerzo!

 Chipirones and albariño

But, just as was the case in Asturias, my favorite thing about Vigo was the people I encountered. As a general rule, I found the people of Spain to be very welcoming, helpful, and easy to talk to. I’m glad to report that’s still the case. I spoke with all sorts of people during my day in Vigo! The first church I visited turned out to be a stop on the camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and I had a lovely chat with a group of pilgrims I met outside. The fruit seller laughed when I bought a jar of Spanish olives and told her that was my favorite souvenir. A group of old guys outside a cafe, with their beers and albariño, ended up chatting with me about my time in Asturias for ten minutes after giving me directions and restaurant recommendations for lunch. I got many compliments on my Spanish, and laughed to myself when I started to hear my old Spain accent coming back.

And at every turn, every local I met was delighted that I was visiting again. The stereotypical images of Spain - bullfighting, flamenco music, dry and desert-like terrain, tilting at windmills - are all images from southern and central Spain. As a consequence, northern Spain to this day remains something of a hidden gem, especially for U.S. visitors. Everywhere I’ve been in that part of Spain, from Vigo to Oviedo to Bilbao, the people living there are rightfully proud of just how much their cities and regions have to offer. I would recommend a focus on northern Spain, and even more specifically on Galicia and Asturias, for anyone. I can’t wait to visit again!

La Coruña, Spain

From this port we chose to visit Santiago de Compostela, with a focus on exploring the famous cathedral. For those who aren't familiar, this is the terminus of The Camino de Santiago, also known as The Way of St. James (Iago is Spanish-Galician verison for Jacob/James). 

Selection of cathedral exteriors. Did you spot the seashell? The scallop shell is a symbol of St. James, and it is used as a marker along the various walks.

There are many routes throughout Europe that bring one here, but for the pilgrim it is a holy site, as it houses the remains of St. James. Modern pilgrims do the walk for many different reasons, and they arrive by foot, bike and sometimes horse! 

I was sorely tempted to buy this t-shirt, but I don't need any new shirts right now.

Some pilgrim arrivals. There was a lot of excitement in the air.

There are many stops along The Way that are important spiritual sites for pilgrims. Where Emily studied abroad in Oviedo, one of these stops is found. She met pilgrims there, as well in other places in her travels, and doing the walk is on her bucket list. Of course, I pointed out that this trip actually fit that, because she walked the last half mile or so! I'm glad we got to share this experience with her.

Emily beginning and completing her mini-walk.

While we were on the bus driving to the site, the guide mentioned that we were here at an auspicious time, as it is a year that the Holy Door is open for pilgrims. This door leads directly to the crypt of St. James. It is considered an honor to enter through this door, also known as the Door of Forgiveness.

About to enter the Porta Santa

St. James Crypt

Mass was happening during our visit. This is a 30 second clip of the beautiful music. No visuals, camera is just pointed at floor, but perhaps listen to it while scrolling through the photos below.

Selection of cathedral interiors. 

If you are interested in learning more about this pilgrimage, there is an excellent film by Emilio Estevez and Martin Sheen, as well as a book they wrote together inspired by making this film. Recommend!

After our explore, we had time to enjoy some local delicacies. 

The Tarta de Santiago, dating from the time of medieval pilgrimage, has almond and citrus flavor and is decorated with the St. James cross (which you may have noted in some of the photos above).

Bilbao, Spain

To visit the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao has been on my bucket list for several years, so I was excited to finally get the opportunity. 

We arrived a bit early than our entry time, so we had a nice Spanish snack at a nearby cafe. Zumo!

Not being a huge fan of modern art, the Frank Gehry-designed structure was the highlight for me. However, there were several pieces inside that I enjoyed, especially the large Richard Serra installation The Matter of Time. There was also a very interesting special exhibit on Motion, including an auto exhibit. Having grown up in Detroit, you know we would definitely want to explore this!

The building is gorgeous from any angle. I was surprised to see how much the color changed depending on the angle, the light, and the perspective. It is constructed of limestone, glass and titanium. Emily and I walked around the entire structure, which was actually quite a long walk!

One side of the museum runs along the Nervion River, and all around the building are found large sculptures: Puppy, Jeff Koons, Maman, Louise Bourgeois, Tulips, Jeff Koons (liked the reflective nature of these). 

Matter of Time was an installation that took up one entire wing of the museum. 

We found ourselves spending a lot of time exploring these sculptures! Some were very disorienting inside, with the angles. Some were a spiral where you ended in the middle. Emily found one had very good acoustics, so she went through several times, singing, and getting others to join in.

A few pieces we especially liked: Untitled, Mark Rothko, Tournesols, Anselm Keifer, Villa Borghese, Willem de Kooning, Large Blue Anthropometry [ANT 105], Yves Klein.

Ford Tourer, 1914

Pegaso Z-102 Cupola, 1952

Fiat Nuova 500, 1957

Lohner-Porsche, 1900

La Rochelle, France

John and I needed another sea day, so we skipped this port. Turning over the blog to Emily, who ventured into town ...

I didn’t initially have any plans to go into port when we got to La Rochelle. For some reason, the city did not have much of an online presence. Most of the Carnival tours were also to other locations, rather far from the port. But shortly before we arrived, they offered a new walking tour of the actual city. Struck by a little bit of FOMO, I got a ticket and went into port.

La Rochelle harbor

I’m so glad I did! La Rochelle is a quiet, normal-feeling small city in southwest France. But it has a very long and fascinating history. It’s been a key trading and seafaring port for centuries, starting in early medieval times. It belonged historically to Eleanor of Aquitaine and, through marriage, to the royal Plantagenet family of England. The Knights Templar had a large presence in the city, and it was a center for Protestant development when the Reformation reached France in the late 1500s. Because of its importance, La Rochelle was functionally independent from the French crown until Louis XIII (1620s, “won” via a nasty 13-month siege). La Rochelle also has some interesting Canadian connections: Champlain, the founder of Quebec, was from the city.

The history alone would make La Rochelle interesting enough. But the city also looks really nice! Many of the buildings are made of local white limestone, giving the city its nickname “the White Town.” It is also very well cared for, with impressively clean streets, buildings, and public toilets. There is also a great deal of green space through public parks all around town, with special attention given to keeping a good biodiversity balance. 

La Rochelle had a lot of lovely carvings on its buildings. Most of them show the city’s seafaring history and main exports: wine, salt, and cheese!

We had an hour of free time in our walking tour. I spent it just walking around and exploring town a little bit. I shopped at a produce market with what seemed to be mostly locals. Lots of people speaking French exclusively and, from what I understood, chatting with friends and customers. I got a snack of fresh strawberries at the market, the most delicious strawberries I’ve had since 2015! 

The produce market

I also paid a visit to the Cathedrale Saint-Louis de La Rochelle, which I strongly recommend for its lovely stained glass windows.

One of the many beautiful windows in the Cathedrale Saint-Louis. If you visit the cathedral, don’t forget to look up! 

Much like Spain, the people of La Rochelle make the city even more enjoyable. They are rightfully proud of their city: when I complimented our guide on how lovely it is, she laughed and said, “Yes. We actually care for our town, unlike…some more famous places.” (Hot take: Paris is not particularly well cared for, and I’m apparently not the only one who thinks so.) I took French in high school and a reading class in grad school, and everyone I spoke to was delighted at how much I was trying. It seemed like everyone I asked for directions or food recommendations had a smile to go along with their help. I felt very welcomed there!

I would absolutely recommend La Rochelle as a port in its own right. Fascinating history, a pleasant town and people, and don’t forget to get some strawberries!

Le Havre, France

We were excited about this port, because it is a doorway to Normandy tours. After all agreeing this is what we wanted to do, I went to book the tour and it was sold out. Wah! Fortunately, Carnival added another tour and we were able to get this one. We were lucky to have an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, who also had many recordings of WWII newscasts and interviews. It really brought the stories alive!

Scenery along the drive to Normandy. Crossing the River Seine.

We visited 3 of the 5 Normandy beaches (Juno, Gold, and Omaha), as well as the Normandy American Cemetery and Pointe du Hoc. Our tour also included a stop in the seaside commune of Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, where we enjoyed a delicious sit-down French meal with wine and dessert. 

Our first stop, Juno Beach, was only a drive-by, so it was difficult to get pictures. Of the 5 Normandy beaches, the Canadian army was primarily responsible for capturing Juno. They were supported by sea  from navies of Great Britain, Canada, Norway and the Free French. There was a high number of casualties early in this invasion. 

Juno Beach in the distance. The large Lorraine cross (which became the symbol of Free France) at the site commemorates those who fought here.

Next up was Gold Beach, the central point of the five beaches, which was the responsibility of the British forces. They were supported by elements of other Allied navies, particularly the Dutch and Polish. We had a nice bit of time here, including the opportunity to see an award winning 360-degree film, but we felt our time was better spent walking around and contemplating the events of this historic place.

Gold Beach, where vestiges of the Mulberry Harbor remain visible. Mulberry was an artificial harbor constructed to bring in supplies once the beach was secured. It became known as Port Winston, honoring Churchill's visionary role in its development. In the photo are caissons, which were anchor points for installation of the floating roads called whales. 

Memorial to Royal British Engineers who contributed to the construction of the artificial harbors. John standing in front of one of the whales. The scope of engineering for this operation was mind-boggling!

Scenes from the site.

 

There is a memorial, called D-Day 75 Garden, which honors the soldiers who landed here. An interesting element was the stone plinths with quotes from soldiers recalling their experience. The memorial sculptures recreate the landing from the perspective of British veteran Bill Pendell. The sculpture at the front of the memorial depicts Pendell looking back at his younger self, age 22, during the invasion.

Contemplation

Our lunch stop at Port-en-Bessin-Huppain was next. This was a lovely little village, and it was a relaxing rest stop. It also had a WWII memorial.

I really was only expecting a box lunch, so this deliciuos meal was a bonus!

Memorial 47 Royal Marine Commando

After lunch we headed to the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. This cemetery is on the site of the temporary American St. Laurent Cemetery, established by the U.S. Frist Army on 8 June 1944, the first American cemetery on European soil in WWII. In 1956, it was dedicated under its current name. The cemetery contains graves of American soldiers, known and unknown who died in Europe. 

As you enter the cemetery, there is a memorial statue called Spirit of American Youth Rising From the Waves. At the middle of the cemetery's Latin cross layout is a non-denominational chapel.

The location is very peaceful.

Although the scope of the cemetery (this just one small portion) is overwhelming.

As we walked around, we saw so many of the death dates were 6 or 7 June, 1944. There were also many graves that were 'unknown.' Since we visited near the anniversary, many graves had flowers, photos, or stones. 

Emily was able to find the graves of two of our famous distant cousins. Quentin Roosevelt was the youngest and Theodore Roosevelt the oldest son of President Theodore Roosevelt.

Our next stop was Omaha Beach, which was the responsibility of U.S. Army troops, with support from the Navy and Coast Guard, as well as the British, Canadian and Free French navies. This landing was necessary in order to link the British landing to the east at Gold Beach and the American landing to the west to Utah Beach. There are two memorials here, the original and a more contemporary one. 

Roses from the anniversary commemorations two days before our visit.

Les Braves, by Anilore Banon, consists of three parts: The Wings of Hope, Rise Freedom, and The Wings of Fraternity. The setting against the water and the way the light changes makes it very dramatic.

Monument Signal, dedicated by France.

Our final stop was Pointe du Hoc, a location where Army Rangers were sent to scale sheer 110 foot cliffs in order to destroy strategic German guns at the top of the cliffs. While most of the Rangers successfully scaled the cliffs, heavy casualties were incurred in the takeover. Much of this area is exactly as it was in 1944. Because of erosion, parts of the area are no longer safe to explore.

View from the top. The semi-circular area is a gun pit. You can also see some of the bomb craters.

Another perspective with more craters.

Remnants of German observation bunker.

At the cliffs' edge.

Zeebrugge, Belgium

I was excited to visit this port because it is in the vicinity of one of my ancestral hometowns, Antwerp! Polly VanAntwerp is my 4th great-grandmother in the Van Dosen line. Her 3rd great-grandfather, Daniel Janse VanAntwerpen was the original immigrant, and he is considered the progenitor of this name (and its many variations) in the U.S. He and his descendants settled many areas around the Hudson River / Mohawk Valley in New York, as well as establishing the town of Schenectady. My branch eventually  meandered to western Michigan, where they established Antwerp Township. 

Photos of Polly Van Antwerp. Horton, the photographer, was the spouse of one of Polly's grandchildren. This is probably why we are fortunate to have photos of people from this far back!

While we had no way to visit Antwerp in a day, it was still wonderful to be within an hour's distance. 

So fun to see this sign in the port after debarking the ship. "Home."

We took the short shuttle into the beautiful city of Bruges, or Brugge, if you prefer (the former reflects the French / English spelling, while the latter reflects the Flemish / Dutch spelling). Bruges is a lovely, scenic town. When I asked our nephew-in-law, who is from Belgium, for suggestions in Bruges, he said "It's like an outdoor museum." He was right; it looks like it's from a fairy tale. What a pretty place to live! We enjoyed meandering about for the day and, of course, trying some Belgian food specialties.

When Emily and I went into one of the many lace shops, I was suddenly struck with the realization that the handmade items I have from my female ancestors in this line was them carrying on the tradition of their culture. This gave me a profound sense of connection to both the place and the items. This was a beautiful way to end my trip!

My cousin Gerlyn gave me these items, handcrafted by Van Antwerp women, a few years ago. On the right in the photo is Melinda Williams Dunton, daughter of Polly Van Antwerp.

Dover, England

Debarkation day was chilly and foggy, as we got our first glimpse at the White Cliffs of Dover. We were off to the train station to make our way to Edinburgh, Scotland, but that journey is for another blog.