Italian Christmas 2023 and Exciting Vagabond News!

 

Merry Christmas!

Emily is here in Capo D'Orlando for the holiday season! She flew into Florence, and we met her there to spend a few days together on a mini-vacation. Other than that, we have not had any specific plans because she requested to "just exist here." 

We enjoyed our trip to Florence, but there were two problems. First, we all had a stomach virus during the trip at different points in time. Therefore, we all didn't get to do all of the things we had hoped to do. However, we managed to squeeze in quite a bit during the times of feeling well. Second, we were disappointed by the number of times we heard negative comments about Sicily, Sicilians, or the South of Italy. I thought this attitudinal problem was a thing of the past, and it was sad to see it still in existence. Some people are just going to be ignorant. 

Maybe? And, if so, then in a positive way. (Photo taken in Palermo.)

Those things aside, Florence was a beautiful city full of stunning art and architecture, as well as delicious foods, and here are some of the highlights...

Sights around our hotel...

Dante's home, now a museum. 13th century.

Extra special for the holidays.

Mercato Centrale. Inside was one of the places we didn't get to, but we did enjoy the beautiful exterior lights for the holidays.

Florence Cathedral (aka Il Duomo aka Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) is stunning. In fact, my first view down a street as we arrived to our hotel made me gasp. The way the exterior shifts in color with the light was beautiful. Together with the bell tower and baptistery, it composes part of the Historic Centre of Florence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Interior shots below.

OPA: ora pro animis ("pray for souls")

Piazza della Signorina and Palazzo Vecchio

The palazzo on this square serves as Florence's city hall. The square has many significant statues including the Equestrian Monument of Cosimo I di Medici, Fountain of Neptune, and Perseus with the Head of Medusa. This is all near the Uffizi Gallery.

Uffizi Gallery

This museum has been on my bucket list for many years. It is one of the largest and most well-known museums in the world, especially known for its collection of Renaissance art. I was so happy to finally visit! A sampling.

Uffizi, meaning offices, was built in the late 1500s and was the original office complex of the Medicis. There is so much art, that it is difficult to take in. Even when resting on a bench, there were so many things to look at and enjoy. Each ceiling panel is different. And these are the corridors!

As you wander throughout the complex, beautiful views of Florence can be found, particularly from the patio of the coffee shop.

Doni Tondo, Michelangelo. This is his only documented panel painting.

Madonna of the Magnificat

Madonna of the Roses

These two tondos by Botticelli were equally as beautiful. I learned that tondos were painted primarily for placement in bridal chambers as omens of fertility. 

Diptych of Duke Federico da Montefeltro and Duchess Battista Sforza of Urbino, Piero della Francesca. This is a painting I was aware of, but I did not know the artist.

The back of the panel is called Triumphs of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino. I like when diptychs are displayed in this manner, so that you can view both sides.

Madonna of the Gold Finch, Raphael. The blue in this was amazing.

Testa di Medusa, Caravaggio

Primavera, Botticelli. I actually preferred this one a bit more than ...

The Birth of Venus, Botticelli. A fantastic aspect of visiting this time of year was the lack of crowds. I was able to admire this painting all by myself.

Madonna of the Pomegranate, Botticelli

I was a little surprised to see a self-portrait of Ai Weiwei, but the Uffizi has a large collection of artist self-portraits. That was unexpected! I also like the piece above, by Jenny Holzer. Some days I feel like this!

Self-Portrait, Johannes Gumpp. Emily found this one intriguing and amusing.

Next to the Uffizi is the lovely Ponte Vecchio on the River Arno. Sadly, we did not get to walk across and visit Palazzo Pitti as intended. I guess we'll just have to return?!

Galleria dell'Accademia

This was our other must-see museum, because ... David. There were many other beautiful works of art, as well as an instrument museum. Wonderful!

Santa Barbara. There are debates over the artist. She is beautiful.

A lovely triptych, Vision of Saint Bernard and Saints, Matteo di Pacino, 1300s.

Lorenzo Bartonlini Plaster Casts Gallery

Stradivari instruments.

In the hall leading to David, there are several Michelangelo sculptures. 

They appear to be emerging from the stone.

Michelangelo's David from different viewpoints. 

Magnificent! I felt like this is one of the best art displays I've experienced. It is easy to look at the sculpture from different angles, and there are even seats all along the alcove to sit and enjoy and contemplate. On a lighter note, as you might imagine, there is a lot of funny merchandise related to David and the other famous works of art here. I found this one particularly amusing:

Basilica di Santa Croce

This was the other church high on my list of places to visit, because so many famous Italians are entombed there. It was an extra surprise to see how beautiful the interior was. I liked this even more than Il Duomo!

The exterior of the church is gorgeous, and there is a lovely view through the gates. Can you see the Duomo?

The Christmas Market was on the piazza in front of the church.

Some interior shots. Stunning! This church had the most beautiful organ pipes I've yet seen. Also an impressively secure door!

 

The polyptych on the main chapel's altar is a recomposition, representing multiple artists.

St. Francis and Twenty Episodes from His Life, mid 1200s, currently thought to be the work of Coppo di Marcovaldo. Santa Croce is the largest Franciscan church in the world, and the legend is that it was founded by St. Francis.

Galileo's tomb

Michelangelo's tomb

Machiavelli's tomb

Vittorio Alfieri's tomb (you'll know why this one was exciting for us at the end of the blog).

Rossini's tomb

14th century hall used as the chapter house and the sacristy. The central wall has frescoes by famous painters like Giotto. The ceiling is decorated with Franciscan saints.

The Medici Chapel, commissioned by Cosimo the Elder, c. 1445. The patron saints of the Medici family appear in the stained glass above the altar. Off to the left is a small room where Galileo was originally buried.

Outside the chapel, another stunning polyptych, artist Lorenzo di Niccolò.

Baroncelli Polyptych by Giotto

Exterior courtyard, including one last monument ...

Florence Nightingale. Did my nursing friends know that she was born in Florence? I did not know that!

The Food!

Pizza and aperitivo.

Chianti, cheers!

Tagliatelle with wild boar ragu, and a fancy salad.

Gelato. I had lavender. Why not!

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Back in Capo D'Orlando, there have been plenty of holiday activities and time to visit with friends. We were glad Emily had the chance to meet many of our new friends (although I've not been on top of my game for making piccies). I'm sure there will be more to come for the remainder of her visit.

We got a small tree since Emily was bringing my small collection of ornaments that I couldn't bear to part with. I don't know if the lights are just different here or they've advanced since we last bought them, but the lights, LED, came on a thin coiled wire. They make multiple patterns. Cool! One of the young women who works at our neighborhood bar always has great nails. Her holiday nails were super cute and festive.

We are eating well, out and at home.

Grazia taught us how to make polpette. We have fun together! I am so grateful for her kindness and friendship.

The polpette were so delicious! I made a red sauce to go with them and with our special stelle ravioli.

Emily got herself a fashionable Italian haircut and shoes.

Nice! John also got a cut, from a new barber recommended by a friend. Eighteen euro for a shampoo, cut, eyebrow trim, and shave - that's what I'm talkin' about! The barber had a good laugh when he asked John how the shave was, and John said, "come bambino gulu" (with Sicilian pronunciation of culo: butt).

We went to a gospel concert at a local church! A tiny sample.

The church had a display of nativities. My favorite was this one that utilized stones from Capo D'Orlando's beach.

We saw our friend Ernesto's show of pencil drawings of Capo d'Orlando. A local elementary class was visiting at the same time. It was fun to see the art along with them. Ernesto is very talented!

Plenty of time for walks along the lungomare (look at the height of that wave!) and around the city.

Christmas Eve Dinner

Christmas sunset and moonrise. 

Aside from Emily's request to exist, we haven't been able to plan a lot because John and I have had to continue going to appointments and related bureaucratic tasks that we've been engaged in since Thanksgiving. But, it's all for a good reason, which leads me to our Vagabond News ...

WE ARE STAYING IN CAPO D'ORLANDO!

We have a one-year apartment lease, John has completed his residency switch (he only has one task left, to get his ID / health care card). I have received my temporary Permission to Stay card, which releases me from the 90-day stay restriction. I have many tasks left to complete related to my residency switch, but we know the procedures now that John has been through them. 

Celebrating progress with friend Corinne who is staying a few towns over. Also celebrating her recent recognition of Italian citizenship.

In the office of one of the police officials. Talking about how we all like Better Call Saul helped break the ice. He was very kind and welcoming.

John celebrating submission of the last bit of his residency paperwork. We still had the police visit before it was official, but that is done now too. I admit we did some stress eating after some of the more challenging days. My Italian language skills have really been put to the test these past two months!

I successfully submitted all the paperwork for my Permission to Stay on December 23. This is the temporary card while it is being processed. An early Christmas present, Hallelujah!

I've lost count of the number of times we've been to the two municipal buildings, the police station, and the photocopy store since Thanksgiving. As many have said, Italy is #1 in bureaucracy, LOL! However, the officials have been great to work with, and they have had saintly patience with our questions and language skills. Many have been outright welcoming and excited to have us here, and we've had more than a little generous assistance from kind friends. 

We are happy to call Capo D'Orlando home!

(Via Vittorio Alfieri is the name of our street.)