Celebrating Sixty: Birthday Cruises with Cousin Gerlyn
Last year in anticipation of our upcoming 60th birthdays, cousin Gerlyn and I decided to plan a river cruise together. This was a new type of cruise experience for both of us, and we began researching the best cruise company and itinerary for our first attempt. Since Gerlyn has Hungarian ancestry (in the line we don't share), we wanted to begin or end in Budapest. We settled on a company called Viva and booked our cruise on the Danube River. Gerlyn would be flying all the way from the US West Coast, so we thought it would be a good idea to add an additional travel experience. We decided on a cruise with MSC in the Adriatic Sea, and John would meet up with us to join in on that cruise to reunite the Travel Trio.
We hit two snags. First, after booking the MSC cruise, we received word from Viva that the ship we were to be on, which was a new build, would not be ready in time for our cruise. Boo, all that research and decision-making for naught. Although they weren't our first choice, we decided to book with Viking, because they have the most ships and itinerary choices, thus making it easier to link to our MSC cruise. Worse, John fell and fractured his femur this summer, along with many additional complications. Therefore, he was unable to join us for the second cruise. Double Boo.
Our final itinerary, with a train transfer from Regensburg to Venice, and a day in Venice prior to embarkation on MSC Armonia. Our Viking ship also got changed to the Gullveig, but since the ships are identical, it didn't have any impact.
This was the beautiful door at my hotel. The picture doesn't really demonstrate, but it was very tall. That black handle was above my head, and I was a little challenged to figure out how to open the door when I arrived at 1:30 a.m. After some sleep, I was recharged and ready to tackle my day of exploration. But I was hungry, so first, some Hungarian salami in Hungary for breakfast!
My goal was to walk along the Danube to check out the various spots where the riverboats dock, to view the famous Chain Bridge, as well as to reach a famous sculpture along the river. Then I wanted to go in, away from the river, to see some of the architecture and visit a coffee house. I also hoped to find some good Mediterranean food for lunch, since my previous research indicated that this cuisine was widely available in Budapest.
View of the Buda side, from the Pest side, where I was walking.
This was a marker showing the height of the waters on 21 September of this year, when the Danube flooded after torrential rains from Storm Boris.
Budapest had lovely architecture. Just a pretty building along the riverfront.
Riverboats, including Viking ships. In the background is the Liberty Bridge, which was near my hotel.
Views of and on Budapest's most famous bridge, the Chain Bridge. It's famous because it was the first bridge to cross the Danube here, eventually uniting Buda and Pest. It's also popular for its beautiful vistas of the city, as well as for its lion sculptures that have a special symbolism and mythology.
After exploring the bridge, I went to see Shoes on the Danube, a sculpture memorial to Hungarian Jews shot in the winter of 1944-1945. A friend tells me that the newer yellow ribbons are symbols to show support for the hostages taken in Israel in 2023.
Next up, lunch! I really love tabbouleh and hummus, and I've been surprised that it's not common where we live. So, I was excited to have this lunch which was absolutely delicious! I also decided to try a local type of beer - sour cherry - even though I'm not a huge beer fan. It was pretty good. Next, onward to some city exploration en route to an afternoon coffee and snack.
I walked over to St. Stephen's Basilica with the intention of visiting the inside. However, it was so pretty outside, that I decided to just enjoy spending time outside meandering back toward my hotel, which by this point was quite far afield. St. Stephen's is named after the first King of Hungary, Stephen, and it contains a relic - his right hand!
Some nice sights along my path. First is the YBL Palace, built in the mid-1800s, which was originally a bank, offices, and residences. I love buildings with this sort of shape. Next is a famous fountain, the Well of the Nereids. Built around 1830, it was the first public fountain with sculptures and other decorations. I liked the Medusa. The next photo is the Danube Fountain, located in a large green space, Elisabeth Square. It was a nice place to sit and people watch. My final destination was the Central Grand Cafe & Bar, a traditional coffee house. There is a more famous one called the New York Cafe, but it sounded like a bit of a tourist trap.
The exterior, interior, and my snack, were all very fancy. I asked the waiter to select a traditional cake for me, and he suggested the Dobos Torte. This is a sponge cake with buttercream layers and a topping of hardened caramel. Its appearance reminded me of a layered cake (with chocolate or caramel frosting) that is popular in south Georgia; maybe it is a descendant? For my coffee I chose Melange et
Fleur D’Orangier. That was a dessert in itself! The German couple next to me were intrigued by it, and thus began an interesting conversation: They had recently returned from a 2 month trip traveling around the States to visit national parks. I enjoyed hearing about their observations of people and places.
After a quick nap, I headed back out to look at some of the buildings in my neighborhood before grabbing something for dinner. The market is in a very lovely building, and the surrounding buildings were pretty as well, especially with the sun starting to set. This was also a chance to get a closer look at the Liberty Bridge. I was on the hunt for a tiny sculpture in the bridge railings.
Found it! Emporer / King Franz Josef I by sculptor Mykhailo Kolodko. Franz Josef's wife, Elisabeth (AKA Sissi) went on to be a theme for our trip. It was fun learning about a part of history I didn't know much about.
The Liberty Bridge had many interesting features and angles for making photos. Many people were out having their pictures made. I was intrigued by the church in the hill on the Buda side. Can you spot the cross at the top?
I went with a traditional Hungarian street food for dinner. Lángos is a deep fried potato dough - sort of like a pizza - that can be served with many different toppings. The sign said this sausage, onion, and cheese version was typical. It was quite tasty, but a little heartburn-inducing, LOL!
Next morning - my birthday - I found this in my suitcase. Emily got me some Sicilian good luck. No wonder my travels were going so smoothly!
After breakfast, a quick pop down to the water to see if my ship was docked nearby. Yay, it was, no taxi needed! I decided to head over and check out the market. I had some paprika to buy!
I never realized there were so many types of paprika! This vendor had fun with the eggplants. Cute!
The market was very colorful and aromatic, and it had some nice architectural elements. I don't think it was previously a train station, but many of the features seemed like that. Paprika in hand, I walked past the ship again. It seemed pretty hectic, so even though I could have checked in early, I decided to leave my bags at the hotel and do some more sightseeing. My destination....
The church in a hill on the Buda side.
There were lovely vistas and art to enjoy on the walk up the hill. A nice sculpture of the young King / Saint Stephen.
I've never been in a church inside of a cave before. The chapel inside Gellert Hill Cave was quite interesting - its nooks and crannies and its contents. I did the audio tour. Here are a few things that especially caught my attention ...
Madonna Images. The Polish Eagle has a replica of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa. The wooden sculpture of Mary and Jesus was quite different than what you usually see. Notice how Jesus is not in her arms. Also, note on the bodice of her dress, there are two pigeons. I learned that pigeons have a positive symbolism in Hungary, suggestive of peace and love.
A more modern part of the church had a room full of these intricate wood carvings.
My church exploration completed, I returned to the hotel for my luggage and walked over to the ship, onboard, a brief check-in, and to our cabin. Easiest embarkation ever. I had a chance to explore the ship a bit, and just before dinner, Gerlyn arrived.
The ship didn't take long to explore, as river cruise ships are tiny compared to even the smallest ocean cruise ship. I easily found the lounge and the dining room, then went up to see the deck on top. I had hopes, not necessarily realistic given the time of year, that I would get to spend some time out here during our cruise. Lots of comfy places to sit to enjoy the views, and I even found a spice garden for use in upcoming meals. Nice!
Now the birthday celebration can begin! A traditional Hungarian dish, Chicken Paprikash, was on the menu this first night. It was delish.
Back at the cabin, a surprise birthday greeting. I'm not sure how it got there, but it was quite pretty. I also added my birth to "Today in History."
Our included tour in Budapest was a bus tour to see city sights on both sides of the Danube, and then a walking tour through the Buda Castle District, with a specific focus on Fisherman's Bastion. The tour was supposed to include Mattias Church, which I was really looking forward to seeing, but because it was Sunday, that was not possible. Had I known, I would have gone on my 'free day.' Oh, well, an excuse to return.
One of the benefits of a bus tour is that you get to see a big overview of a place. The downside is that it's very hard to take photos and to remember everything. Gerlyn and I scored - this tour only - the front seats on the bus, so our photos were a little better than usual. Above, some of the architecture I especially enjoyed. Have I mentioned in a previous blog that one of my childhood dream careers was architect? The first photo in this series is a significant building, the Dohány Street Synagogue. It is the largest synagogue in all of Europe, seating 3,000! If I return to Budapest, I would like to visit and see the interior.
Off to our walking tour location. Really enjoying the Autumn colors.
The focus of the walking tour was Fisherman's Bastion. We also did see the exterior of Matthias Church. Instead of trying to rush around to see the Castle at the other end of the district, we decided to leisurely explore and try another traditional street food.
The guide jokingly called the first building "Communist Baroque." The couple on the Holy Trinity Statue were having a photo shoot. We never did figure out why, but her dress was visually stunning.
Some random scenes from our walk.
Matthias Church, also known as The Church of Our Lady of Buda, was impressive. There may have been a church here as early as 1015, but the current building was constructed in the 13th century and then subsequently renovated in different periods. During the Ottoman invasion, it served as a mosque.
Additional detail of Matthias Church.
Fisherman's Bastion is a promenade / terrace that was built around 1900 to celebrate the 100th birthday of the Hungarian state. It is known for its panoramic views and features a prominent statue of King / Saint Stephen.
The views did not disappoint. The island in the middle of the river in this photo is a place Gerlyn's grandmother had visited in the 1970s.
Winding up our tour with a traditional Hungarian sweet, Chimney Cake. We opted for the cinnamon flavor, as that was considered the most iconic. Yum!
Back on the bus for another scenic drive, we passed Roman ruins from the second century. The drive brought us back to the ship which had relocated up the Danube while we were touring. Once on board, we enjoyed a lovely lunch and leisurely cruising on the Danube during the afternoon, as well as an afternoon high tea.
At tea time, the cruise director gave us her grandmother's recipe for Hungarian Goulash.
The weather was absolutely gorgeous; it was a fantastic day!
The next morning we awoke in Vienna, where we would remain for two days. Unlike the other ports we visited on this trip, the Vienna dock was not right at the city centre. So, we began with a short bus tour that brought us to the centre. I enjoyed our morning walking tour, but so many palaces! The Hapsburgs seem like they might have had some hoarder tendencies.
I really couldn't keep all of the buildings straight, but they certainly were beautiful. At the end of the walking tour we had the option to go back by bus to the ship or to make our way back on our own. Gerlyn and I felt fairly confident that we could maneuver our way back, so we stayed longer in the city the remainder of the afternoon for exploration.
A few interesting buildings on our drive to the centre ... First is a beach bar on the Danube. In the warm months, they bring in sand to simulate a beach. Sounds fun! The white Art Nouveau building is a public observatory. "Mexico Church," AKA Emporer's Jubiliee Church, was located near our dock. It, and the square it sits in, is named in honor of Mexico, the only country in the League of Nations to officially protest the annexation of Austria to Germany in March of 1938. Interesting bit of history!
We began our tour at the monument to Empress Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of the Hapsburgs. In addition to leading a kingdom, she gave birth to 16 children! She is the mother of Marie Antionette.
The palaces. The fancy ceiling was in the area near the stables for the famous Lipizzaner horses.
We continued our walking tour through the historic centre. I liked the colorful accents on this building.
We stopped near this monument for a potty break. It is called the Holy Trinity, and it commemorates victims of the plague. I know it's a strange thing to take a photo of, but it's the fanciest - and cleanest - public toilet I've ever experienced!
Lunch, part 1. Vienna street food. So delicious!
St. Stephen's Cathedral is the focal point of the city centre. This Catholic church was constructed from the 12th through 16th centuries, then reconstructed after extensive damage following WWII.
Church Exteriors
Church Interiors. I lit at candle at this altar for cousin Antonio Milano, who passed right before I left for this trip.
I liked the wooden angels carved into the bases of the organ pipes.
Our last wish for the day was to try the famous Sacher Torte. We mapped our way over to Sacher. Once we saw the price and the line, we decided to try the torte at another location. We asked a local where they would go, and they suggested Aida. This was a great suggestion. We had lunch Part 2, fancy "ladies who lunch" sandwiches and coffees - and Sacher torte!
After a very crowded subway ride, we successfully found our way back to the bridge leading to the dock.
This area is sanctioned for graffiti. Interesting.
Returning to the ship was sometimes confusing. The ships often switch position while you are away!
Our plan for Day 2 in Vienna was to visit the Vienna Central Cemetery. So many famous musicians are there! However, once we realized it was not central and would be complicated to maneuver, we nixed that plan. Since we had many, many days of cruising and excursions ahead of us, as well as an excursion in the evening, we decided a pause day might be in order. So, we had a leisurely day sitting out on deck, exploring the ship, and walking along the dock. (There may also have been a nap.)
I loved these chairs that were all around the ship. Such a pretty design.
Our lazy day. Did I mention how good the food was on this cruise? That salad was fantastic.
At the same dock as us, a Viva ship. That's the company we were originally cruising with.
Our evening excursion was a Mozart and Strauss concert, which took place in a lovely concert hall.
Welcomed back on board with a little goulash treat. Warm and yummy.
Next morning, up for an early arrival to Krems, to visit Göttweig Abbey. This Benedictine monastery, founded in 1083, is a World Heritage Site, with fabulous views, art, and apricot products.
Our visit began with a video orientation to the site and its history, along with a sampling of wine produced at the Abbey. This was followed by a nice walking tour in and around the Abbey property.
Fabulous views! The Abbey is a stop on one of the routes of the Camino de Santiago, which terminates at Santiago de Compostela in Spain. We visited the tomb of St. James at this cathedral a few years ago.
Model of the Abbey buildings.
The Church had pretty pink and golden hues on our sunny day. If something seems strange about the windows, it's because many of them are painted on. Construction on the church was through many time periods, and it was affected by historical events of the times. As we were about to enter the church to view the inside, the guide said something funny: "Now time for ABC. Another beautiful church." Gerlyn and I continued to use this term throughout our trip, as there were so many ABCs. It got a little overwhelming after a point. I imagine I'll use ABC forever. Because European travel always involves ABC!
Church Interiors
Next, we were off to what is probably the most famous part of the Abbey, in terms of architecture: The Imperial Staircase. This is the largest Baroque staircase in Austria, and it has a magnificent fresco (1700s), depicting myth and history. A mirror helped us viewers to examine the fresco characters and to take photos. Napoleon rode his horse up the stairs - arrogant! The Abbey was not destroyed under Hitler, as he used it as a school.
All that walking makes you hungry! Gerlyn and I paid a small fee to upgrade our excursion to include an apricot dumpling cooking demonstration and tasting. Glad we did! There may have also been a little more wine tasting. Below, a few additional shots from meandering around before returning to the ship.
It's really gorgeous there.
My look as a Benedictine Monk. I discovered on this trip that Austrians and Germans are really fond of teddy bears.
I brought back some of the apricot nectar for GG and I to enjoy back on the ship. It was so fresh and flavorful. Two of our Canadian shipmates. These ladies were fun. They had been friends for 50 years, and this trip was their first time traveling together.
Back at the ship, we were greeted with hot chocolate (the little touches!) while lunch was served. After that big dumpling, we decided on salads. That salad was fabulous, bursting with flavors. While dining, the ship pulled away to begin what was my favorite aspect of this cruise - an afternoon sail on the Danube through the Wachau Valley.
The Wachau Cultural Landscape has been recognized by UNESCO since 2000. It stretches between the cities of Krems and Melk, and is recognized for its architecture, especially historical, and agricultural landscapes, particularly its vineyards.
What a way to spend an afternoon!
The sun beginning to set, and near the end of the valley, we popped back in for the Strudel making demonstration and tasting. The head chef and his pastry chef showed the steps, and then we had samples. (The personal interaction with staff is a difference on the river cruise, compared to ocean cruises.) While that was fun and yummy, it did result in me missing getting a good shot of Melk Abbey, an equally impressive historical place as the Abbey we visited in Krems.
Melk Abbey off in the distance as we approached the locks. I'd like to visit there in the future. Speaking of locks, we went through many (I think it was something like 18), but most were smaller and during the night. The Melk Locks were quite large and were interesting to experience. I find locks fascinating, and - shame on me - I'm realizing now I never blogged about our Panama Canal cruise! A bit off topic, but here's a Facebook post from our day going through the Panama Canal.
To be fair, we lived on cruise ships for about 3 months after that wonderful crossing, and I had limited WiFi signal for blogging. I realize I also never wrote about those trips or my 'compare and contrast' of the different lines we sailed. Oh, goodness, so many blogs, so little time! But, back to this trip ...
Entering the lock
Going up. It was fun to listen to those around me who hadn't experienced a lock before trying to sort out how it worked. I was actually surprised that more people on this cruise hadn't been on a Panama Canal cruise.
You can see the gate still closed, as we are rising. There were two other ships in with us. On the opposite side, a ship going the other direction was lowering while we were rising.
Yes, that is the ship's railing against the wall! Don't get your fingers stuck. I remember in the Panama Canal, if you touched the side, it was supposed to bring good luck.
Exiting. No more wall, magic! And timed with a lovely sunset. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect day of travel!
Next morning: Passau, Germany. And Halloween! We searched for the decorations while approaching port.
There may have also been some of that European candy squirreled away.
At breakfast, we decided to skip the included ship walking tour and meander on our own. Scenes from our morning walkabout searching for ABC ...
Passau was very visually interesting. I'm glad we made the decision to not go on the guided tour. While we missed the historical and local information it would have provided, we were able to look at the city slowly and with mindfulness. My photos were definitely better as a result. We made it to ABC ...
St Stephen's Cathedral is a Catholic church in Baroque style, built in the late 1600s. A church has been at this site since the 700s! I was especially interested in visiting this cathedral because I had heard that it has the largest pipe organ in Europe (formerly in the world).
Unfortunately, upon arrival, we learned that the organ was being refurbished. The photo above is a covering on the work area, showing what the organ looks like. And I got a photo of a few of the pipes. Under normal conditions, you can attend an organ concert here most weekdays for a small fee. That would have been fun! Nevertheless, the church and its courtyard was quite beautiful, and we enjoyed meandering around.
This is another place I lit a candle for cousin Antonio. I miss our sweet cousin!
The doors at this cathedral were very cool!
ABC ✔ Time for a warm drink ... and a pretzel! My hot chocolate was warm milk served with a melting candy, many flavors available. I chose strawberry.
One of the distinguishing features of this area is that it is a point where three rivers - Danube, Inn, and Ilz - converge. Our ship was docked on the Danube. The photos above are from a bridge over the Danube. We decided to walk over to the Inn side to go see the point of convergence of the Danube and Inn rivers.
A scenic and peaceful stroll.
Arrived. Many making photos here.
Tonight's culinary treat: Bavaria Fest.
The first thing we were introduced to was the Stumbling Stone (or Stolpersteine). These are plaques created by artist Gunter Demnig to remember and tell the stories of victims of the Holocaust. They are placed in front of the homes once inhabited by the people they memorialize. These are just a few of those in Regensburg. Our guide told us that school groups will often take on a project of researching a person and raising the money for the small fee required for construction and placement of a stone.
Memorial Mizsrach, by Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan, is found at a site roughly corresponding to the Jewish quarter, extending back to at least 1020. Excavations in the 1990s uncovered the synagogue that was destroyed in the 1500s, as well as other significant buildings. The church in the background was built on this site after the synagogue's destruction. The memorial is designed as a spot for relaxing, talking, and contemplation.
Nearby, we visited the contemporary synagogue (2019), which was built approximately on the site of the synagogue that was destroyed by Nazi arsonists in 1938. The room you can see in the photo was originally a community spot to encourage discussion between people of different faiths. However, since the current situation with Gaza, and potential for violence, the center has been closed and now serves as a library and reading room. The poem Together (in the artist's Rose Ausländer's handwriting) is displayed in a spiral. Our guide read us the poem, but I've not been able to find a translation online to share here.
Judensau (depiction of Jews suckling from a pig) on St. Peter's Cathedral. This is found on the side of the cathedral that faces the entrance to the former Jewish ghetto from which hundreds of Jews were expelled in 1519. Imagine being confronted with this image on a regular basis.
As part of the 1519 expelling, the Jewish cemetery was destroyed. Headstones were taken and then incorporated into, and proudly displayed in, building construction. Here are two examples that remain as a reminder of the past.
Old City Hall, where Hitler took control of Regensburg.
Ending on a more positive note, we saw the home of Oskar Schindler. Surely you know his story. If not, you must see Spielberg's masterpiece Schindler's List (currently streaming on Netflix). Schindler lived in Regensburg for a brief period after the war.
On to other historical aspects ... The Romans established a fort in this location in 179 CE. It was about 62 acres and housed around 6,000 soldiers. While many of the ruins of this compound are buried under later structures, there are significant portions still visible around the city. Regensburg is also home to a very old and famous bridge, as well as to the oldest sausage house in all of Europe. We also saw two ABCs.
This is the northeast corner of the fortress wall, that was discovered in the early 1900s.
Touching history! Porta Praetoria is one of the four fortress gates. In the stones, you can see where an original tower stood.
Standing on History! The Old Stone Bridge, built in the 1100s, is considered a significant example of medieval architecture. The bridge is now pedestrian only, which affords a nice opportunity to really explore it. The men who built that bridge had to eat somewhere, which brings us to, right next door ...
ABC time at St. Peter Cathedral. This is an impressive structure with interesting Gothic elements. Unfortunately, one of the elements was the aforementioned Judensau. I don't think either of us were interested in checking out the inside, but we did pop into the nearby basilica to admire its artistic elements.
Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady Regensburg
We also passed through two museums, but I think I was suffering a bit from information overload. So, for the rest of Regensburg, here are some shots of things I found interesting from meandering the streets.
Snoopy was popular here, as were dachshunds. There was even a dachshund museum. Not enough time to check it out, but very intriguing.
Why a piccie of the public toilet? Interesting social policy. The blue light prohibits heroin addicts from shooting up, because they cannot see their veins.
We passed through an area of university dorms in very old buildings. The bikes made me think of UC Santa Barbara. There is no tuition for international students. You have to be able to speak German, acceptance rate about 40%.
We encountered Regensburg's City Mouse while on tour. It's said if you touch the mouse, you will return to Regensburg. You know I touched it! Maybe I'll get to see that dachshund museum after all?
Well, that brings to a close the first leg of our journey. Next we had an interlude, with transfer to, and two nights, in Venice, before boarding our MSC ocean cruise. River cruising was very interesting and enjoyable. It's totally different in comparison to ocean cruising (really apples and oranges), and it is much more expensive. I do envision doing this style of cruising again, especially now that we live in Europe. However, I am going to be on the hunt for more affordable providers than Viking.
When I was researching and planning our transfer from Regensburg to Venice, I was focused on getting us there. I felt kind of stupid once we were on the train and I realized ... Wait, we're going through the Alps! That was a beautiful, unexpected bonus of this part of our trip.
Up early for the short train ride from Regensburg to Munich.
We had some wait time at the Munich station, so we had a breakfast treat. We also bought sandwiches there for the train ride, which neither of us took piccies of before gobbling down that deliciousness! Italy, I love your awesome bread and pastries, but I think Germany is tied with you on bread and has you beat in the pastry category.
Fun graffiti
And, we're off to Venice. It was about a 6 hour ride, but the time flew past quickly. We were sat across from a German mother and daughter taking a trip to Venice together. Between occasionally chatting with them and enjoying the beautiful scenery, we were in Venice before we knew it.
Lovely train ride. I'm sure I'll do it again!
Venice was foggy and eerie when we arrived at the station and stepped out to the Grand Canal. Our lodging was nearby, a nice apartment on a fairly quiet side street and also close to the cruise port. Look what we found at the door - a stumbling stone! Connections. Even though we were tired, we did our laundry so that it would have time to dry during the next day while we explored Venice.
Italian playing cards at our apartment. I love these decks, whose designs vary by region. Gerlyn did all of the heavy lifting on arrangements for our stay in Venice, and she selected a great place! The host had family from Sicily, so we enjoyed having some chit chat time. She also gave us some good recommendations for breakfast and aperitivo. Her "handle" is cute: Patti Chiari Amicizia Lunga (clear conditions, long friendship). It's true!
Both of us had been to Venice previously on very brief visits and had seen different things. I wanted to get a close-up look at Murano and GG at Piazza San Marco. We also wanted to spend most of the day just wandering through streets. This in mind, we decided that the HOHO sightseeing bus would be the best option. Of course, the HOHO has to be different in Venice because of the canals - it's a ferry!
Maps in hand, ready to set sail, so to speak. Unlike other HOHOs, this one didn't have many stops. We decided our best strategy was to ride to the further point, Murano, then return about halfway to an area called Zaffere, wander from there to San Marco, then hop back on to return to the stop near our lodging, Stazione Santa Maria. Next section a mostly photo essay of our day's adventures. This was a fantastic way to enjoy the beauty of Venice. We were blessed with a beautiful day full of sunshine, which made Venice really shine!
Enjoy 7 seconds of the bells and scenery.
Segment One: Stazione Santa Lucia to Murano to Zaffere.
Segment Two: Meandering from Zaffere to St. Mark Square with Lunch.
Segment Three: The Aperitivo. I was on the hunt for a Spritz born in Venezia, made with a bitter called Select. (Our host also told me about her favorite, the Cynar Spritz. Cynar is made from artichokes! I've since had it here in Capo D'Orlando. It is very bitter. The Select fell somewhere between Aperol and Campari.) We asked our host to suggest a place in the neighborhood, away from the tourist area. She suggested this nice bar on a canal. The sunlight shining on the water and buildings at sunset was gorgeous. What a perfect way to end our day.
Next day was transfer to the ship. This turned out to be quite an endeavor. First obstacle was getting over this bridge, with steps! Even with just carry-on and backpack, it was quite challenging. I cannot imagine trying to wrangle a full-size suitcase.
Next, a walk to the tram station. The tram takes one to the port area, where there is another walk to get to the first check-in. Luggage is dropped off here, no porters, before one transfers to another building for the check-in. There were questions about my travel documentation because my passport was not stamped for entry into a Schengen country within the previous 90 days. Duh, I live in Italy, of course it isn't. I had not yet received my Permesso di Soggiorno card, but I had the paperwork and receipt with me. I had to meet with the immigration officer, who decided my fate. This was not right, as I had everything I needed to board, but they seemed confused. It was stressful! After check-in, we were directed to another waiting area for our tender number to be called. You might say, "What? A tender." Yes. After Venezia decided to disallow cruise ships, the ships are now docked at nearby Marghera, the industrial port. However, all of the check-in facilities are still in Venice proper. I fully support their decision, but it makes embarking in Venezia a nightmare. After our tender ride, we had to climb a steep set of stairs to get on to the ship. John would never have been able to do all of this. We made the right decision. For all of these reasons, I cannot recommend embarking for a cruise in Venice, unless it's an itinerary that you can't get elsewhere.
Finally on board, we did all the usual embarkation day activities. Guess what was on offer for dessert? Sacher torte (I sense a theme!). This was the least delicious of all I tried, so I only sampled a couple of bites. Next up, sea day,
We had a really pretty sea day and spent most of the time just relaxing and enjoying the view. We did venture inside to watch the Master Chef competition. It was funny, but a bit tedious listening to all of the host commentary 5 times (various languages). On MSC at the lunch buffet, there is usually a chef making fresh pasta dishes. This is the pasta to have onboard. Yummy!
Unfortunately, the next morning I awoke with a stomach bug. I decided to stay on board, while Gerlyn went out to explore Dubrovnik, Crotia. I had been before, so it wasn't horrible to miss, but I was sad to miss out on time together. Rest was good, and it was another pretty day (we were so fortunate weather-wise on this trip). I wanted to be able to get off at the next port, Kotor, because I'd never been to the tiny country of Montenegro before.
My day. Grateful I had a nice view. A little photo essay of Gerlyn's day in port ...
Dubrovnik's port and landscape just as pretty as I remember from 2007, but grown. Looks like GG had a fun Walkabout!
Yep
I rallied for Montenegro. We had a pretty sail in at sunrise, with the ship moving slowly as it completed complicated turns. For this port, we decided to have a meander around the old town.
Arrival
Walls and Gates
ABC. Church of St. Nicholas.
Other interesting sights / views. The hanging laundry was a clever sculpture. This was a nice town for meandering around.
And, finally, all the cats of Kotor! That one would not leave Gerlyn alone. There's even a Cat Musuem. Sadly, it was already closed for the season.
The next morning, unfortunately, the stomach bug returned, so I had to miss our first of two stops in Greece. WAH! It was my first time visiting Greece. On the positive side, there was another Greece port, so I tried to not be too disappointed.
Fortunately, it was a pretty day, so I was able to to go outside for a bit and gaze longingly at Corfu. My €4 Pepsi plus a bread roll for lunch. Gerlyn's Corfu photo essay below.
I'm glad GG's day was more fun than mine. Nice photos!
We were treated to a gorgeous sunset as we left Corfu and an equally lovely sunrise as we arrived to the island of Zakynthos.
Since this was a tender port and the little town around the port didn't have a lot on offer this time of year, we decided to take a ship excursion. Our excursion included a nice tour around the island with a few stops, as well as traditional Greek snacks and drinks.
First stop, ABC. The Church of S.S. Timotheo and Mavra is an important landmark of Zakynthos. It contains a relic of Mavra, and is known for its Venetian bell tower. The church's history, and the story of how the relic was discovered, is better described here than I ever could do justice from memory. It was full of visually interesting items.
Scenes from the bus. Some were very up close as we navigated narrow roads. The olive tree is more than 2,000 years old!
Next stop was a restaurant with beautiful views, Greek snacks, and dancing!
Back on board, we enjoyed a beautiful afternoon of cruising back to Italy's mainland for our next, and final, port, Bari.
Lovely sunrise greeting into Bari.
For my first visit to the Puglia region, my number one bucket list item was to visit the town of Alberobello in order to see the Trulli structures for which this area is known. The Trulli are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gerlyn kindly agreed, so we signed up for a ship's tour that would transfer us there and provide a guided walking tour. As it turned out, the guided walking tour was a big fail. First, the provider didn't seem to realize that there was a marathon taking place in Alberobello that day which cut off access to the historical centre as soon as we arrived. As a result, our guide took us to a part of the city that was not of historical interest. When we finally got to the centre, the young woman was not very knowledgeable at all. Honestly, we learned more from Wikipedia. I was getting pretty hot under the collar, and realized that I needed to take a time out, so I split off from the group to make pictures and explore on my own for the short time we had left. MSC agreed to refund us the difference between the transport only tour and the one for which we paid. Other than the guide problem, it was very cool to wander the streets in the centre and explore these unique buildings.
Walking into Alberobello from the parking area, as well as driving in about 15 minutes out from the city, we began to see these unique structures and their materials.
Trulli in the distance, as seen from the more 'modern' part of the city.
Trulli "Then"
Seven countries, just shy of 3 weeks, our journey concluded. I'm not sure about Gerlyn's travel stats, but I visited 5 new countries and 9 new UNESCO sites. How grateful I am to have had such a special experience to celebrate our milestone birthdays!
First let me wish you a HAPPY BIRTHDAY. What a wonderful trip, besides the sick part. I lived in Greece for almost three years and if you get a chance, go back and see more. Visit the Peloponnese. There's Olympia, Sparta and even Kalamata where the olives come from. Short jump from here to Athens where history resides.
ReplyDeleteI hope John is better. I noticed he wasn't with you, but as age sets in and health can play tricks on you, it takes a while to get back to normal, if there is such a thing.
Stay safe and healthy and thanks for posting. I always look forward to your posts.
Ciao Robert. Thank you for the birthday wishes. It was a great trip! I definitely want to spend more time in Greece. How fortunate that you had time to live there. And Kalamata is on my bucket list! Friends went there last year and it looked lovely. Well, it's all beautiful. Alas, JV was not able to travel, as he had just returned home from rehabilitation after his second operation. He was originally scheduled to join us for the Adriatic cruise. However, we're beginning to cautiously dip our toes into travel waters (for him). We had a successful weekend trip to Palermo recently, and we have a 7 night Med cruise scheduled this month. It departs from Messina, so it's easy for us to get there (by train, 2 hours) and then board the ship. You're absolutely right about 'normal.' We're just taking it day by day and accept that there may be a 'new normal.' Thanks for always being so kind.
DeleteHappy belated birthday to both of you! 🍰 I found the tidbit about blue light in one of the public bathrooms making addicts unable to see their veins very interesting.
ReplyDeleteCelebrating while going with the flow is a gift to be shared. You both have it in spades. Lovely pictures - I especially enjoy (ABC) churches myself. Thank you for sharing. 💕
Thank you for following along, for the lovely comments, and the birthday wishes!
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