London Walks, Part 1

Emily spent several months this year in London, with plenty of time to do a deep explore. I asked if she would be a guest writer for the blog, which she kindly agreed to do ...

Enjoying London!

On my first day in London earlier this year, I bought a little guidebook that caught my eye. It’s called London’s Hidden Walks, a series dedicated to urban hikes around Central and Greater London. As the title suggests, even if a hike has famous landmarks or covers well-known areas, each walk is meant to draw your attention to things you might not notice. It’s a great way to get to know London in a way that will make locals tell you that you know it better than they do. :) I thought I'd share my favorite walks for the blog. Buckle up, because I have a lot to say!

London Walk #1: Emily’s London Highlights River Walk

Technically this isn’t one of the routes from London’s Hidden Walks. But it’s a path I thought of on a trip in October 2024, and I actually walked it on this most recent trip. Central London has some of the most famous landmarks in the world, and this walk will take you past or in sight of most of them. The trick is to stay as close to the River Thames as possible (a closer look at some landmarks may require a small uphill walk).

St. Paul's Cathedral peeking out from the River Thames.

I like to start at Tower Hill Underground station and follow the route west to the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, but it can be done in either direction. It’s a very easy walk as well. Since you stay basically on the bank of the Thames the whole way, it’s mostly flat and has a lot of easy things to look for if you get turned around. Finally, you can easily pick up walks around Southwark/Bankside (third on this list, spoiler) and Westminster/Whitehall (honorable mention).

Starting at Tower Hill station, you will see:

The Tower of London

The stunning tower of London from the outside.

I visited for the first time this March, and BROTHER. It was one of my favorite things I did! There is so much to be seen in the Tower of London complex, from the crown jewels and Henry VIII’s armor to exhibits on different stories surrounding it, to the stone walls themselves. Even just the outside is stunning, especially on a sunny day. If you do visit the Tower proper, take advantage of the free Yeoman Warder tours throughout the day, and don’t leave any bags of food open…the ravens will get it for sure!

A very cheeky raven, Tower of London.

Tower Bridge

Tower Bridge, NOT London Bridge!

The one everyone thinks is London Bridge, but ‘tis not. Probably London’s most recognizable bridge by sight, though, and its #iconic status is impressive when you consider that it dates back to the Victorian period. This is not very long in what I refer to as British Historical Time.

The Shard

This is London’s tallest building as of today. It’s very easy to spot: a giant triangle skyscraper made mostly of glass. Not super pretty, but an interesting shape, and I used it a lot as a location-finder while traveling around London. (A photo later, from another walk.)

Shakespeare's Globe

Teenage me at the Globe on my first trip to England, 2009.

More on the Globe in the Inns of Court and Southwark/Bankside Walks. But it’s a beautiful replica of the original building where (most of) Shakespeare’s plays were first performed.

At the Globe to see The Merchant of Venice on my 2015 college graduation trip. 

St. Paul’s Cathedral and Tate Modern

St. Paul's Cathedral from the Millennium Bridge.

Two very famous landmarks, connected by the Millennium Bridge, I could write a whole entry just on Tate Modern, and a whole BLOG on how much I love St. Paul’s. But I will restrain myself and simply say that the buildings themselves are astounding. If you have time, cross Millennium Bridge heading toward the cathedral to get guidebook-quality shots of it. Oh, and go see some music there – a service, a concert, anything – since the acoustics are unmatched.

Cleopatra's Needle

The view, zoomed in, from Cleopatra's Needle.

I think this obelisk, with its four sphinxes, is something a lot of people see in London but don’t know what it’s for. I didn’t myself until this trip! It was a gift from Egypt to England for help in the Napoleonic Wars, long story short. (Fun fact, it has a twin with the same name in New York City.) It is a lovely place to stop, rest, and get some interesting skyline views. Be warned, though: it’s a little close to the water for comfort at high tide!

The London Eye

The rewards of walking in London after dark.

Okay, slightly hot take incoming…I think that the price and LONG lines now outweigh the experience itself. Maybe skip riding it. (I found the London Cable Car more fun and a lot cheaper for a similar bird’s eye view.) That being said, this is another great landmark to use when you’re lost, and it is beautiful to look at. At night, it gets lit up in all sorts of fantastic colors!

Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament

My favorite London landmark, apparently.

Is there any building in London MORE famous? I think not, and for good reason! Its size, gold color, and intricate detailing make it an impressive building on any day. But on a sunny day…it literally sparkles, and it is very tastefully lit at night too. 

I think I have more photos of this building than any other in London, and every single photo is a good one. Plus, Westminster Abbey and Whitehall Palace are right across a square from it, and Trafalgar Square is about a 5- to 10-minute walk. 

Trafalgar Square. I waited for the bus to get in the shot. :)

So this is an iconic area in general…and a great way to end this walk is with a seat on the National Gallery stairs, at Trafalgar Square, eating a £5 Meal Deal from the Tesco you will pass on the way. Thank you for coming to my TED Talk. :)

This route passes the following bridges throughout (in order): The real London Bridge, Southwark, Millennium, Blackfriars, Waterloo, and Westminster Bridges. For my money, Southwark Bridge wins second place (after Tower Bridge) for most photogenic. You will also pass several beautiful and free gardens, like Victoria Embankment Gardens, which are great places for breaks.

If you only have a short time in London, can’t do long distances, and/or want some of the best photo ops, do this walking route!

London Walk #2: Hampstead

I love being outside and in nature, especially woodsy areas. Lucky for me, London is maybe one

of the greenest cities I know. Its most famous parks are 100% worth a visit: St. James’, Victoria,

Green, and Hyde Parks would be on that list. 

Green Park, October 2024.

Big Ben looking cheekily over St. James Park.

The Horse Guards, St. James Park.

As if that weren’t riches enough, it seems like there’s a smaller park or pretty public garden everywhere you turn in most parts of London. I enjoyed passing through Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park many times, and Victoria Embankment Gardens are especially pretty in the springtime.

But go a little farther outside of Central London, and there’s even MORE. The most famous “Greater London park,” I’ll call it, is probably the grounds at Greenwich Royal Observatory. 

At Greenwich Observatory

But on this most recent trip, I visited a former village called Hampstead, and the natural wonderland that is Hampstead Heath surrounding it. I think I’ve found one of my absolute favorite outdoor areas in London.

Picnic lunch at Hampstead, courtesy of Tesco again.

Let’s start with the town itself. On this trip, I learned that a lot of parts of Greater London were their own villages or towns at some point in history. They’re considered neighborhoods or wider areas nowadays, but many of them have their own individual characters that make them stand out. A lot of them have also kept their original names: Hampstead, Neasden, Notting Hill, Greenwich, Stratford, etc.

Out of the many parts of London that I visited on this trip, Hampstead was hands down my favorite. It is very, very hilly, but you couldn’t ask for more charming buildings. Lots of brick and white stone, all very British-looking in a way that’s tricky to describe. It’s like…you look around and know you couldn’t possibly be anywhere BUT England.

Could it be any more British?

I found the people to be very friendly as well, willing to stop for a longer chat even after they’d given the lost American some directions! (While Londoners are, on the whole, much friendlier than people might have you believe, they don’t always have a moment to stop and chat if you’re more central.) 

A pretty street in Hampstead Village.

Hampstead is known for attracting wealthy residents, and a few grand English houses can be seen and visited around it. However, unlike Notting Hill, Hampstead doesn’t feel obviously expensive or occasionally out of touch. There are plentiful tree-lined streets, and it seems every house has an impressive flower garden outside. 

The Pergola and Hill Garden. 

Finally, there are a large number of very pretty and historic pubs, a necessity anywhere in England. I recommend The Old Bull and Bush, but I hear the Holly Bush is a particular favorite with locals.

Lunch at the Old Bull and Bush.

Hampstead also has deep connections with British literature and art. Many famous authors either lived there or spent significant amounts of time there, for a little natural inspiration/therapy. That list includes, among others (deep breath): Robert Louis Stevenson, John Keats, Charles Dickens, H.G. Wells, Karl Marx, William Blake (poet and painter), Lord Alfred Douglas (Oscar Wilde’s sometimes partner), John Constable (famous British Romantic painter), and Jim Henson (creator of the Muppets). Constable even liked Hampstead enough to be buried in a church there. Looking around at the buildings and natural areas, you can see why painters and novelists (including Bram Stoker, author of Dracula) were so inspired by this area.

One of John Constable’s favorite views of the Heath.

But the best part of Hampstead? Hampstead Heath. Referred to simply as “the Heath” by a lot of locals, it’s about 800 acres’ worth of woods, streams and ponds, manicured and wild areas, and hills. So. Many. HILLS. You will need a nap after going for a day’s hike around the Heath, but it is well worth it for anyone who loves the woods.

Pond and Rail Bridge

The Heath’s history is interesting in and of itself! It was first developed during the 17th and 18th centuries around natural springs and wells all over the area. London has long had struggles with maintaining clean and drinkable water – a struggle that continues even today – and the water resources on the Heath were tapped (haha) to help with that. During the 18th century it was very popular as a spa and wellness destination. A lot of that history can still be seen around the Heath today, in its more manicured ponds and a particularly lovely spot called the Vale (“valley”) of Health. You can taste the water too, from spigots for refilling your water thoughtfully placed all over the Heath.

The Vale of Health

I think my favorite aspect of the Heath, though, is how peaceful it is. Hampstead Heath station, on the Overground, is a little less than an hour from Stratford (where I was based) or Central London. But out there, you feel like you’re in another world. The trees are often gnarled and ancient-looking; sometimes all you hear is birds singing; even people’s dogs don’t bark much. It’s quiet enough, and the grass soft enough, to take a nap (which I did). You will absolutely forget that you’re still well within the bounds of what people call “London.”

Gnarly trees and one of the many ponds.

Take a moment, if you’re able, to go up at least one of the hills. You’ll have plenty to choose from, trust me. It will be a tiring climb, especially toward the end of your day. But when you get to the top, Hampstead Heath will reward you. Think sweeping, emerald green hills that look almost too smooth to be real. Little church spires poking out of trees, and a Central London skyline that looks like kids’ toys from that distance and height. And a (hopefully blue) sky that seems endless and timeless.

Teeny Central London from Hampstead Heath.

Take off your shoes. Sit on the grass, eat a picnic lunch. Give fellow hikers a London-style greeting: quick eye contact, head nod, and maybe a smile. Watch the world turn. I can promise you will never want to leave.

“All we see is sky, for forever.”

London Walk #3: Southwark / Bankside 

Now, anybody who knows me probably knows how much I love the Beatles. What people might not know is that I’m also a very big fan of Shakespeare.

Volunteering at the Shakespeare Tavern in Atlanta back in the day.

One of my earliest memories of a book is of a beautifully illustrated kids’ adaptation of a few notable plays. (Romeo and Juliet and A Midsummer Night’s Dream are the ones I recall best.) I’ve read historical fiction, and countless nonfiction books, about him and the Tudor era in which he lived since I was seven. I’ve spoken, read, and sung his words for almost as long. I took two courses on him in college, studied works by his contemporaries, set songs from his plays to music, and analyzed Igor Stravinsky’s Three Songs of William Shakespeare in graduate school (yes, really). And I have attended more performances of his works, including at the Globe in London, than I can count.

Teenage me, Acting!

So yes, Shakespeare and the Tudor period are incredibly important to me. That is why the Southwark and Bankside area is one of my top favorite parts of Central London! I can’t think of a part of London more strongly connected with Shakespeare, and with his fellow actors and playwrights. So let me take you back in time, as I couldn’t help going as I walked around these parts.

Southwark Bridge, with a view of the Shard.

In general, Southwark/Bankside is a part of London with a lot to see and do. On this area’s hike in London’s Hidden Walks, you visit both low-key and high-key landmarks. One of my favorite low-key things was Guy’s Hospital, which helped patients considered “incurable” and has a very pretty chapel.

Guy's Hospital Chapel

The winding, cobbled streets surrounding Borough Market, London’s oldest fruit and vegetable market, are also incredibly atmospheric. The garden space of St. George the Martyr church, partly framed by a wall from the former Marshalsea Prison, is a lovely and peaceful spot.

Marshalsea Wall and the Shard.

Another very famous prison, the Clink, has been in Southwark/Bankside since 1144; its administrative buildings now house Clink Street Nando’s. (Talk about a unique dining experience.) The Shard, that triangle-shaped glass skyscraper, is in the heart of Southwark/Bankside and is a great landmark to use if you get turned around.

And, of course, there are two VERY famous buildings in this area, connected by the Millenium Bridge: Tate Modern and St. Paul’s Cathedral. I visited both of them, and passed them many times, during this particular trip. Both are well worth a visit!

Tate Modern was originally a power station.

Many others have yakked about them online, so I won’t add too much here. I’ll just give a sentence of quick tips for each one. For the Tate Modern, one of the best views of London is through a window on the third or fourth floor, and their cafe salads make a really good meal.

What a view!

For St. Paul’s, you may enter for free if attending a service and, if you’re lucky, the volunteers may invite audience members to watch from behind the choir, near the altar. You should do this.

My favorite angle of St. Paul's.

All that, in my opinion, should be enough to convince. Southwark/Bankside is, as the kids say, A Vibe and it’s a great area to just walk around and hang out. My main draw to it, however, is that the place is crawling with Shakespearean connections. The most famous is, of course, the Globe Theatre. Its replica is on the riverbank, but the original sat a little further back. Today that site is occupied by “a block of flats” (apartment buildings), but it does have a memorial plaque and tiles in the ground where the building foundations were. It’s truly something to walk up to it and understand that this is where all of that magic began.

At the original Globe site.

But there are at least a dozen other special places for Shakespeare nerds like myself. First off, Southwark and places in it are mentioned BY NAME in Shakespeare’s plays. That includes the Globe (Henry V) and the out-of the-way White Hart Yard (Henry VI, Part 2). The George Inn, where I had a fabulous Sunday roast, sits on a site that has had an inn for travelers on it since medieval times.

A classic British meal.

Inns like this one allowed traveling acting troupes in Shakespeare’s time to perform in their outdoor courtyard. It’s not a stretch to think that Shakespeare himself might’ve done some acting there too.

From the courtyard, the George Inn.

Southwark Cathedral was very likely the parish church for Shakespeare and the other members of the Globe’s company. Today, it contains a pleasant memorial to Shakespeare – always well stocked with pens and pencils from visitors – and a friendly church cat. The Anchor pub stands on the site of a place likely to have been a favorite drinking spot for the Globe’s actors and shareholders. Even the streets themselves make history feel alive: many of them are cobbled. Makes you wonder if you’re walking on the same stones as all these people.

“All the men and women merely players,” Southwark Cathedral.

Southwark/Bankside is also important to the history of London theatre and popular entertainment in general. During the Tudor period, of which Shakespeare’s “Elizabethan age” is the tail end, most public entertainment was heavily regulated. Theatrical performances, gambling, “animal entertainment” (more on that below) and other such things were only allowed OUTSIDE of the City of London walls. Southwark/Bankside was outside the walls at that time. So it makes sense that Elizabethan theatres – the Globe, the Rose, the Swan, and many others – would all be kind of clustered in the same area. It also makes sense that many theatre professionals would’ve chosen to live and hang out near their workplaces.

Southwark Cathedral exterior

But. Let me tell you. I was NOT prepared for those places to still feel so present. It seems like every corner of Southwark/Bankside holds a memory of them. For example, the street “Bear Gardens” is a nod to bear-baiting, a “sport” best compared to illegal dog or rooster fighting. (I had the sobering experience of standing in an actual bear pit in Sheffield in 2023.)

Inside the bear pit, Sheffield.

Another portion of the Southwark/Bankside walk takes you to a dead end street for cars, but it’s a bit of an odd one. Most dead ends in London, in my experience, are not round or about the size of a building. Then it hit me: Most Elizabethan theatres were round-ish buildings. I was standing where the Rose Theatre once stood. It was a famous venue in Shakespeare’s time, and a place where he and his equally famous contemporary Christopher Marlowe debuted plays. Plays I’d read, studied, spoken words from. And I could tell, just from looking at the shape and size of this seemingly ordinary dead end, exactly what it once was. I knew that the Rose’s original site was down that street, because the street is called…well, Rose Alley. But I didn’t expect it to be so obvious. Well, it was obvious to me, I don’t know about anyone else!

Mural commemorating the Rose Theatre.

In any event, I felt myself transported back in time. Hurtled, more like. I could almost see the stage, the box seats, the ruffs and feathers, the rowdy audience tossing apples at villains. I could almost smell the dirt floors, the beer, the oranges and cinnamon Tudors once tied into handkerchiefs to keep bad smells (and sickness) away. I could almost hear the actors speaking, the jeers and cheering and applause. It was enough to give me the “spooks”: that tingling feeling in your spine when you know you’re walking straight through history.

Globe Theatre today.

But that’s what makes Southwark/Bankside special, at least to me. It brings me to a piece of advice I’d give about London. If you have a passion for some part of that city’s long history, find the places most connected to it. And go there. It’ll bring London to life for you in a way that nothing else will!

Back to Chris ... Emily will cover 3 more walks in a future post, but we thought it would be fun to share one other cool thing that happened on her trip. In the photo, she is standing next to the police officer on the right. If you click on this link, it will show the entire video, filmed by kaydentheroyalist, a young Royal correspondent wannabe who was standing next to Emily and kindly shared his footage. Emily said she received a smile and a nod.

Thanks, Emily, for being my guest writer!